Day 1 - St Dogmaels to Newport

Wednesday 4th July
16 miles, 9 hours



We were dropped off at 9.30 at the unmarked start beside the landing stage at the northern end of St Dogmaels village. After our obligatory photo at the start we set off in light drizzle for the first of our 186 miles to Amroth.


The first section was an easy walk along the road following the Teifi estuary. Despite the mistiness there were good views across the river towards Poppit sands.





We passed the first sign of the coast path in the wall near the Poppit sands car park. This is the point where the path originally started when it was opened in 1970.


It was then a steady climb up the small lane towards Allt-y-goed farm and onto the cliff top path.






The path around Cemaes Head was lined with numerous wild flowers. Many wall crevices and rocks were covered with patches of pink and red Stonecrop flowers.





The cliffs around Cemaes Head rise to 135 metres above the sea. The layers of rock here are all bent into interesting formations.







As we turned to head southwards around the point the wind blew strongly off the sea, and stayed with us for the rest of the day. Strong gusts of wind made it difficult at times to keep upright, we were thankful it wasn’t blowing the other way.





We had some relief from the wind as we descended into Ceibwr Bay and stopped on the beach for lunch.




The rough water around the entrance to the bay was a contrast to the calm inside. As the afternoon proceeded the cloud began to clear and even a few glimpses of sunshine appeared.


Pwll y Wrach is an amazing sight. The narrow pathway takes you down over the arch which would once have formed the entrance to a cave. Years of continual erosion have caused the roof of the cave to collapse, leaving an open amphitheatre. It’s unsettling to wonder how strong the rocky bridge remains as you walk across while the sea rushes in beneath you.




There were numerous birds along this section of path, though not all of them were as cooperative as this rock pipit!




After a long period of dramatic high cliffs, we rounded Morfa Head and the path began to descend towards Newport Sands. From here we had a good view over the bay towards the town of Newport.




Arriving at Newport sands feels deceivingly close to the town, but there was still a detour along the estuary to cross the Afon Nyfer at the bridge further inland. The flat sheltered walking was a welcome change at the end of the day.





We arrived at Y Bryn Bed and Breakfast at 6.30pm to a warm welcome with tea and biscuits.


Evening meal: Golden Lion Inn. Very good food and service.