This is a photo guide to the Pembrokeshire Coast Path which we walked in July 2007. It is a fantastic walk along a National Trail, taking you around the southern headland of Wales. The 186 mile route runs from St Dogmaels along the rugged coast to St Davids. From here it goes around the great sweep of St Brides Bay, before turning along the industrial estuary of Milford Haven. Finally it passes numerous sandy beaches along the southern section to Amroth.

This page contains full details of all stages, or you can use the links on the right to view each individual stage. We have also collected together details of the accommodation we stayed in. We hope it will be of some use to those who may be planning to do the walk themselves, or encourage others to give it a try.

Please enjoy our report, and sign our guestbook or leave comments.
Rachael & Mark.

Day 1 - St Dogmaels to Newport

Wednesday 4th July
16 miles, 9 hours

We were dropped off at 9.30 at the unmarked start beside the landing stage at the northern end of St Dogmaels village. After our obligatory photo at the start we set off in light drizzle for the first of our 186 miles to Amroth.

The first section was an easy walk along the road following the Teifi estuary. Despite the mistiness there were good views across the river towards Poppit sands.

We passed the first sign of the coast path in the wall near the Poppit sands car park. This is the point where the path originally started when it was opened in 1970.

It was then a steady climb up the small lane towards Allt-y-goed farm and onto the cliff top path.

The path around Cemaes Head was lined with numerous wild flowers. Many wall crevices and rocks were covered with patches of pink and red Stonecrop flowers.

The cliffs around Cemaes Head rise to 135 metres above the sea. The layers of rock here are all bent into interesting formations.

As we turned to head southwards around the point the wind blew strongly off the sea, and stayed with us for the rest of the day. Strong gusts of wind made it difficult at times to keep upright, we were thankful it wasn’t blowing the other way.

We had some relief from the wind as we descended into Ceibwr Bay and stopped on the beach for lunch.

The rough water around the entrance to the bay was a contrast to the calm inside. As the afternoon proceeded the cloud began to clear and even a few glimpses of sunshine appeared.

Pwll y Wrach is an amazing sight. The narrow pathway takes you down over the arch which would once have formed the entrance to a cave. Years of continual erosion have caused the roof of the cave to collapse, leaving an open amphitheatre. It’s unsettling to wonder how strong the rocky bridge remains as you walk across while the sea rushes in beneath you.

There were numerous birds along this section of path, though not all of them were as cooperative as this rock pipit!

After a long period of dramatic high cliffs, we rounded Morfa Head and the path began to descend towards Newport Sands. From here we had a good view over the bay towards the town of Newport.

Arriving at Newport sands feels deceivingly close to the town, but there was still a detour along the estuary to cross the Afon Nyfer at the bridge further inland. The flat sheltered walking was a welcome change at the end of the day.

We arrived at Y Bryn Bed and Breakfast at 6.30pm to a warm welcome with tea and biscuits.

Evening meal: Golden Lion Inn. Very good food and service.

Day 2 - Newport to Goodwick

Thursday 5th July 2007
15 miles, 8 1/2 hours

We set off from Bryn bed and breakfast at 9.30 and headed back to rejoin the path at Parrog. The wind had settled overnight and it was a pleasant start to the morning. We followed the path around the beach at Parrog and on to the cliff top path.

There were good views towards Dinas Head. The path along this section was generally easy going.

As we neared Cwm yr Eglwys the banks of the path became more fully covered with a variety of plants. The village is sheltered by the bulk of Dinas Island and has it's own climate.

Unfortunately at this point the days climate started to turn into a wet one. We had a brief look around the ruined church of St Brynach which stands overlooking the harbour.

We decided to take the longer route around Dinas Island to Pen y Fan summit via Needle rock. Large numbers of guillemots and gulls were nesting on the steep cliff edges. On a fine day I’m sure the views would be amazing!

From the summit, the path descended gently around grassy fields before dropping into Pwllgwaelod.

The appearance of the cliffs changed as we approached Pwll Gwylog. Here the bay was surrounded by dark jagged cliffs and offshore stacks.

Hescwm was our lunch time stop, it’s a pleasant secluded pebbly bay. We watched Herring Gulls and Oyster Catchers bathing in the little stream that passes down the centre of the beach.

Between here and castle point it was extremely wet and windy and the only view was mist in all directions. The path seemed to go on and on with numerous twists and turns along the way.

At castle point the cloud finally lifted and we could suddenly see across the harbour to Goodwick and it’s huge breakwater.

The road around Lower Town area of Fishguard was busy but there were great views across the harbour.

We took a short detour into fishguard town to buy some supplies before rejoining the path around saddle point. The final two miles into Goodwick were flat and easy going.

We arrived at Fern Villa Guest House at around 6pm.

Evening meal: Fish and chips sat on the harbour wall. Recommended on a good evening!

Day 3 - Goodwick to Trefin

Friday 6th July 2007
19.5 miles, 10 1/2 hours

We woke to a bright sunny day which was encouraging for our long day ahead. It was 9.30 as we set off from Fern Villa Guest House along the road above Goodwick Quay to join the cliff top path. It wasn't long before we saw the Irish Ferry approaching.

We had a wonderful clear view of Carnfathach ahead.

This was very pleasant walking, good paths, good scenery and fantastic weather. The purple patches of heather and thyme were abundant along this section.

The memorial stone at Carreg Goffa was erected to commemorate the last invasion of britian in 1797.

By 11.45 the Irish ferry was passing us again on it’s return journey. Soon after we observed seals swimming in a secluded bay. They seemed to be toying with us. As soon as the camera was focused they decided to dive and only reappeared once it was turned off!

Strumble head lighthouse gleamed as we approached and was to become a dominant feature of the landscape and our photos for some time. The sea beyond the point in Carreg Onnen Bay was extremely rough. It is clear to see the necessity of the lighthouse in such a rugged location.

The path from Strumble head was very enjoyable with the scenery changing at every turn. Our lunch time spot was a sheltered bench overlooking Pwll Deri.

From Carn Ogof summit Strumble Head could be seen as a white dot on the distant horizon. The path then descended through heather and gorse towards Pwllcrochan.

At Pwllcrochan, steep cliffs surround the bay, with no way safe way down due to severe erosion.

Aber Mawr is a lovely beach we could have sat here for much longer but it was already 5pm and we still had a few miles to go.

Abercastle has a pretty harbour. It would have been nice to have spent more time here exploring.

From Abercastle the path twisted and turned around the numerous little bays before reaching Trefin. We took a short detour out to Pen Castell coch. There were great views back to the north to Strumble Head.

It was almost 8pm by the time we arrived at Pen Yr Olmarch bed and breakast.

Evening meal : Ship Inn. Good basic pub food and a welcome pint of beer.