Pembrokeshire Coast Path 2007

Introduction

2007-07-04T23:59:00.006+01:00

This is a photo guide to the Pembrokeshire Coast Path which we walked in July 2007. It is a fantastic walk along a National Trail, taking you around the southern headland of Wales. The 186 mile route runs from St Dogmaels along the rugged coast to St Davids. From here it goes around the great sweep of St Brides Bay, before turning along the industrial estuary of Milford Haven. Finally it passes numerous sandy beaches along the southern section to Amroth.

This page contains full details of all stages, or you can use the links on the right to view each individual stage. We have also collected together details of the accommodation we stayed in. We hope it will be of some use to those who may be planning to do the walk themselves, or encourage others to give it a try.

Please enjoy our report, and sign our guestbook or leave comments.
Rachael & Mark.

Day 1 - St Dogmaels to Newport

2007-07-04T20:13:00.006+01:00

Wednesday 4th July
16 miles, 9 hours

We were dropped off at 9.30 at the unmarked start beside the landing stage at the northern end of St Dogmaels village. After our obligatory photo at the start we set off in light drizzle for the first of our 186 miles to Amroth.

The first section was an easy walk along the road following the Teifi estuary. Despite the mistiness there were good views across the river towards Poppit sands.

We passed the first sign of the coast path in the wall near the Poppit sands car park. This is the point where the path originally started when it was opened in 1970.

It was then a steady climb up the small lane towards Allt-y-goed farm and onto the cliff top path.

The path around Cemaes Head was lined with numerous wild flowers. Many wall crevices and rocks were covered with patches of pink and red Stonecrop flowers.

The cliffs around Cemaes Head rise to 135 metres above the sea. The layers of rock here are all bent into interesting formations.

As we turned to head southwards around the point the wind blew strongly off the sea, and stayed with us for the rest of the day. Strong gusts of wind made it difficult at times to keep upright, we were thankful it wasn’t blowing the other way.

We had some relief from the wind as we descended into Ceibwr Bay and stopped on the beach for lunch.

The rough water around the entrance to the bay was a contrast to the calm inside. As the afternoon proceeded the cloud began to clear and even a few glimpses of sunshine appeared.

Pwll y Wrach is an amazing sight. The narrow pathway takes you down over the arch which would once have formed the entrance to a cave. Years of continual erosion have caused the roof of the cave to collapse, leaving an open amphitheatre. It’s unsettling to wonder how strong the rocky bridge remains as you walk across while the sea rushes in beneath you.

There were numerous birds along this section of path, though not all of them were as cooperative as this rock pipit!

After a long period of dramatic high cliffs, we rounded Morfa Head and the path began to descend towards Newport Sands. From here we had a good view over the bay towards the town of Newport.

Arriving at Newport sands feels deceivingly close to the town, but there was still a detour along the estuary to cross the Afon Nyfer at the bridge further inland. The flat sheltered walking was a welcome change at the end of the day.

We arrived at Y Bryn Bed and Breakfast at 6.30pm to a warm welcome with tea and biscuits.

Evening meal: Golden Lion Inn. Very good food and service.

Day 2 - Newport to Goodwick

2007-07-04T20:12:00.007+01:00

Thursday 5th July 2007
15 miles, 8 1/2 hours

We set off from Bryn bed and breakfast at 9.30 and headed back to rejoin the path at Parrog. The wind had settled overnight and it was a pleasant start to the morning. We followed the path around the beach at Parrog and on to the cliff top path.

There were good views towards Dinas Head. The path along this section was generally easy going.

As we neared Cwm yr Eglwys the banks of the path became more fully covered with a variety of plants. The village is sheltered by the bulk of Dinas Island and has it's own climate.

Unfortunately at this point the days climate started to turn into a wet one. We had a brief look around the ruined church of St Brynach which stands overlooking the harbour.

We decided to take the longer route around Dinas Island to Pen y Fan summit via Needle rock. Large numbers of guillemots and gulls were nesting on the steep cliff edges. On a fine day I’m sure the views would be amazing!

From the summit, the path descended gently around grassy fields before dropping into Pwllgwaelod.

The appearance of the cliffs changed as we approached Pwll Gwylog. Here the bay was surrounded by dark jagged cliffs and offshore stacks.

Hescwm was our lunch time stop, it’s a pleasant secluded pebbly bay. We watched Herring Gulls and Oyster Catchers bathing in the little stream that passes down the centre of the beach.

Between here and castle point it was extremely wet and windy and the only view was mist in all directions. The path seemed to go on and on with numerous twists and turns along the way.

At castle point the cloud finally lifted and we could suddenly see across the harbour to Goodwick and it’s huge breakwater.

The road around Lower Town area of Fishguard was busy but there were great views across the harbour.

We took a short detour into fishguard town to buy some supplies before rejoining the path around saddle point. The final two miles into Goodwick were flat and easy going.

We arrived at Fern Villa Guest House at around 6pm.

Evening meal: Fish and chips sat on the harbour wall. Recommended on a good evening!

Day 3 - Goodwick to Trefin

2007-07-04T20:11:00.025+01:00

Friday 6th July 2007
19.5 miles, 10 1/2 hours

We woke to a bright sunny day which was encouraging for our long day ahead. It was 9.30 as we set off from Fern Villa Guest House along the road above Goodwick Quay to join the cliff top path. It wasn't long before we saw the Irish Ferry approaching.

We had a wonderful clear view of Carnfathach ahead.

This was very pleasant walking, good paths, good scenery and fantastic weather. The purple patches of heather and thyme were abundant along this section.

The memorial stone at Carreg Goffa was erected to commemorate the last invasion of britian in 1797.

By 11.45 the Irish ferry was passing us again on it’s return journey. Soon after we observed seals swimming in a secluded bay. They seemed to be toying with us. As soon as the camera was focused they decided to dive and only reappeared once it was turned off!

Strumble head lighthouse gleamed as we approached and was to become a dominant feature of the landscape and our photos for some time. The sea beyond the point in Carreg Onnen Bay was extremely rough. It is clear to see the necessity of the lighthouse in such a rugged location.

The path from Strumble head was very enjoyable with the scenery changing at every turn. Our lunch time spot was a sheltered bench overlooking Pwll Deri.

From Carn Ogof summit Strumble Head could be seen as a white dot on the distant horizon. The path then descended through heather and gorse towards Pwllcrochan.

At Pwllcrochan, steep cliffs surround the bay, with no way safe way down due to severe erosion.

Aber Mawr is a lovely beach we could have sat here for much longer but it was already 5pm and we still had a few miles to go.

Abercastle has a pretty harbour. It would have been nice to have spent more time here exploring.

From Abercastle the path twisted and turned around the numerous little bays before reaching Trefin. We took a short detour out to Pen Castell coch. There were great views back to the north to Strumble Head.

It was almost 8pm by the time we arrived at Pen Yr Olmarch bed and breakast.

Evening meal : Ship Inn. Good basic pub food and a welcome pint of beer.

Day 4 - Trefin to St Davids

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Saturday 7th July 2007
15 miles, 8 hours

It was another bright sunny day, and with less distance to cover it meant that we could take our time and enjoy it to the full. We left our B&B at about 9.45 taking the footpath across the fields to rejoin the coast path at the lower end of Trefin. There were bright clear views back to the North.

White beacons mark the entrance to Porthgain harbour. The well protected harbour is surrounded by numerous derelict buildings which indicate a busy industrial past. It is hard to imagine what a noisy place this must have been with it being so quiet and peaceful today.

From Porthgain harbour the path took us past Pentop quarry. This has now been returned back to nature and is a haven for wild flowers. The tufted vetch was thriving here.

The path follows a well maintained track along the cliff top, passing Porth Egr and Traeth Llyfn.

The headland of Trwyncastell surrounds Abereiddi bay and contains remains of Aberreiddi slate quarry. A Blue Lagoon has been formed in the flooded quarry. We watched a group of people coasteering around the craggy edges of the deep blue/green pool.

As the path proceeds towards Carn Penberry the coastline becomes a little more rugged, with more ups and downs on the path. The view in front is dominated by the peaks of Carnedd-Ileithr, Carn Perfedd and Carn Treliwyd close to St Davids Head.

The Penllechwen peninsula was covered by masses of purple heather. The rocks at the point made a perfect lunch stop location. There were clear views back to Carn Penberry and the now very distant Strumble Head.

The section from here to St Davids head was very enjoyable. It was a perfect day for walking and admiring the views. Coetan Arthur is a Neolithic burial chamber dating back to about 3500 BC

As we left St Davids Head and approached Whitesands bay the path became a lot busier with people out enjoying the sunshine. Whitesands bay has a lovely stretch of golden sand, we were tempted to go for a swim. Instead we decided on an ice cream and a wander along the beach.

We followed the path as far as Porthselau before heading inland to St Davids.

St Davids has a magnificent cathedral. It seems a little out of place for somewhere that has a village feel to it. Just a few small shops, pubs and restaurants surround the central square. We continued half a mile further on to our bed and breakfast for the night at the Twr Y Felin hotel.

Evening meal : Old Cross Hotel.
Good food in a friendly and relaxed bar

Day 5 - St Davids to Solva

2007-07-04T20:09:00.011+01:00

Sunday 8th July 2007
14.5 miles, 7 1/4 hours

It was yet again another lovely start to the day. We left St Davids at about 9.30 and headed along the lanes and footpaths back to Porthselau.

By the time we reached Porthstinian cloud was beginning to develop. Beyond Ramsey Island the sky was looking quite dark.

We watched as boat trips left to tour around the island, pausing at the point where the water rushes through the bitches. Even from the path the sound was quite loud.

As we approached Penmaen melyn we had a sudden downpour. It only lasted a few minutes but it caught a few people out who had probably taken a short walk from St Davids. We passed one couple with no coats who were absolutely soaked.

The gorse and heather seemed to glow after the short shower.

Porth Clais has a pretty harbour with a very narrow curving inlet. We sat on the benches overlooking the old quay for our lunch. A friendly blackbird enjoyed a few left over bread crumbs.

By the time we left Porth Clais the sun was out once more. In comparison to the previous days this section is very easy walking. The path is good and reasonably level giving more time to admire the views.

By the time we reached St Non’s bay we had walked nine miles but were only just over half a mile from where we had started!

There were wide views across St Brides bay extending all the way round to Skomer Island.

Solva harbour seemed to appear quite suddenly through the thick gorse.

The secluded Gwadn Bay and the entrance to Solva harbour is well protected by Penrhyn peninsula and the surrounding rocky islands

We arrived in Solva at 4.45pm just in time to get cup of tea from the little teashop and enjoy the afternoon sunshine and the view of the harbour.

Our bed and breakfast for the night was Bank House in Upper Solva.

Evening meal : Harbour Inn. A good pub serving Brain's beer. Dark & Smooth is favourite!

Day 6 - Solva to Broad Haven

2007-07-04T20:08:00.006+01:00

Monday 9th July 2007
12.5 miles, 7 1/2 hours

Our run of good weather continued with yet another bright sunny start to the day. We left our bed and breakfast at about 9.30 and returned to the harbour to rejoin the coast path. The path leaves the harbour passing a well maintained series of lime kilns and up onto the Gribin ridge.

Near the harbour entrance the path drops briefly into Gwadn bay

We took a short detour out onto the Penryn peninsula. The water in the harbour was so calm, clear and such a lovely deep blue/green colour.

It was a pleasant easy start to the day along the cliffs passing two peninsulas Dinas Fawr and the more rugged Dinas fach.

There was an abundance of wild flowers along this section of path. Including this pretty common centuary.

Penycym beach is at the point where the path turns and takes a more southerly direction. There were amazing clear views along the cliffs back to Ramsey Island and St Davids head.

Newgale is an impressive sandy beach stretching for 2 ½ miles backed by large pebbly storm beach. We took our boots off and had a refreshing walk along the beach in the water.

It was a shame to leave the beach behind. However the clouds were beginning to build in St Brides bay and we still had several miles to go. Our plan was to stop at Nolton Haven for lunch but the keen south westerly wind made it unsuitable and we continued on to find a more sheltered spot along the clifftop overlooking Madoc’s Haven.

Above Druidstone Haven we came across this interesting house built into the ground. Apparently known as the “teletubby house” for obvious reasons.

Druidstone Haven is surrounded by steep dark cliffs and the access is alongside a small stream which disperses across the sandy beach. The clouds were getting darker so we decided not to stop long.

The next section of path has some seriously eroded cliffs. This was quite a large landslip near to Haroldston Chins.

We arrived at Broad Haven just before 5pm. As we approached our B&B Albany Guest house, we felt a few spots of rain. Five minutes later once we were inside it was pouring down. We couldn’t quite believe what perfect timing we had achieved.

Evening meal: The Galleon Inn Good food, very popular pub.

Day 7 - Broad Haven to Dale

2007-07-04T20:07:00.013+01:00

Tuesday 10th July 2007
16.5 miles, 9 hours

The rain had cleared overnight and it was a bright but cloudy start to the day. We left our Bed and breakfast just after 9am and headed back to Broad Haven beach. The tide was out and the wide expanse of sand had been revealed.

We followed the beach round to Little Haven and rejoined the path via the slipway onto the road.

It was good easy walking along this section of path, passing along the wooded cliffs to reach Borough Head

It was a pleasant walk along the next section passing Mill Haven and St Brides Haven. There were a few ships anchored out in St Brides bay and in the distance we could see Grassholm Island. It appeared white in the sun apparently due to the masses of gannets nesting on the island. We saw several nesting birds along the cliff edges too and also a group of kestrels. These were perfectly camouflaged against the dark reddish soil.

We paused briefly on a bench above Musslewick sands. Unfortunately it was high tide and there was no sign of the beach.

We arrived at Martin’s Haven just after 2pm, an hour too late for the boat trip out around skomer but it was a convenient stopping point for our lunch. Martin’s Haven had less to see than we expected with only a small pebbly beach and a rickety walkway for boarding access.

There was some sort of construction work with diggers taking place within the deer park so we decided to not to take this detour.
The scenery and climate on the southern side around Deadmans Bay was quite different. The cliffs took on a redish tint and the banks were abundant with wild flowers.

We followed the cliff top path around past Gateholm Island and along above Marloes Sands.

We took a short trip down to investigate the beach and it’s three chimneys. The alternating sandstone and mudstone run vertically up the full height of the cliff. Different rates of erosion has left tall red stone columns. After a short time enjoying the view we set off back up onto the path towards Westdale bay.

Westdale Bay was the point at which we left the coast path for the day. We opted to head directly into Dale and leave the Dale peninsula and St Ann’s head for the following day.
On the approach to Dale we had a good view across Milford Haven and to the Oil refineries near Angle bay.

We arrived at our bed and breakfast, Richmond House just before 6pm. It is ideally situated within Dale being only a minutes walk to the Griffin Inn and with great views from the doorstep out across dale roads.

Evening meal: Griffin Inn Good food, busy pub.

Day 8 - Dale to Sandy Haven

2007-07-04T20:06:00.010+01:00

Wednesday 11th July 2007
13 miles, 7 hours

The cloud had cleared overnight and we woke to another beautifully sunny day. We left the bed and breakfast at about 9.30 and stopped off the café to pick up supplies before heading back across the footpaths to Westdale Bay.

The redness of the cliffs was really noticeable against the bright blue of the sea.

There were large patches of thrift lining the banks. Unfortunately much of it was past it’s best. A few weeks earlier we would have seen an amazing sight.

The old lighthouse is now disused and has been converted into accommodation. A lovely location and unique place to stay. The replacement has a far less appealing appearance.

From the lighthouse and coastguard buildings the path crosses fields towards Mill Bay. This is the point where Henry Tudor landed in 1485.

It was a perfect day for walking, sunny and warm with a light breeze. As we approached Castlebeach bay we watched a rescue helicopter hovering over Dale point and dropping down to land. When we reached the road we found out that someone had fallen off the cliffs.

Three hours after starting the day we were walking once again through Dale. It was now very busy with people.

The pub looked tempting for a drink but we were a little behind our planned time and we wanted to cross the Gann Estuary before the tide came in so we had to press on.

It was nice to have a change of scenery coming inland.

We had used a tide calculator programme to work out the tides when planning the route several months earlier and were very glad to see it had worked out right.

The Gann estuary was very green and slimy however the bridge was surprisingly clean. From the signpost at Pickleridge carpark it says you have 2 hours either side of low tide. It was nearly three hours past low tide as we crossed and looked like it would still be quite a while before it reached the bridge.

We walked along the beach for as far as possible then took the narrow slightly overgrown path to Monks Haven. The victorian folly on the cliff top above the creek made a good point at which to stop for lunch.

From this point on the path had been strimmed and was far easier going. We passed several large wartime time lookout points and gun emplacements.

By mid afternoon the cloud was building but remained dry. The view ahead was dominated by the oil refineries.

As we approached Great Castle Head a large tanker passed us which we had seen moored out in St Brides bay the previous day.

We reached Sandy Haven at about 4.30pm. The tide was high in the pill but fortunately we didn’t have to cross today, as we were staying at Skerry Back farm. We had a warm welcome, with tea and cake on arrival.

Evening meal: Lift from Mrs Williams to Taberna Inn, Herbrandston. Friendly staff and good range of beer.

Day 9 - Sandy Haven to Pembroke

2007-07-04T20:05:00.011+01:00

Thursday 12th July 2007
18 miles, 8 1/4 hours

We set off from our bed and breakfast at about 9.15 and headed down to Sandy Haven Pill. Our tide estimator had proved to be worthwhile again, the tide was out and ready for us to cross. The bridge was a little green but the stepping stones were all easy to cross.

The morning was a bit misty and as we reached the far side of the pill it turned into a very fine drizzle.

Despite the mistiness the first part of path was quite pleasant, passing around Sandy Haven beach and towards South Hook Point. Stack Rock Fort could be clearly seen.

The sound of construction work from the new liquid gas terminal just along from South Hook point became more and more noticeable as we approached the jetty. Huge amounts of pipe work were being laid which we had to cross. Our pace increased to pass the diggers quickly.

From the Jetty the path follows an overgrown roadway. The tall hedges were filled with a variety of flowers.

At Gelliswick Bay the path joins the road and passes through a quiet residential area before dropping down into Milford Haven.

From Milford Docks we followed the road down into a large marina. The old dock buildings have been transformed into a series of little shops running along the marina edge. We picked up a sandwich for our lunch in a café here.

At the end of the marina we took a footpath along a disused railway line cutting running parallel to the road above. The path rejoined the road through some parkland/gardens. We paused briefly to watch the Irish Ferry pass by before heading up through houses and then down towards Castle Pill.

As the tide was out we followed the shoreline along the very muddy Castle Pill.

The next section was the worst part of the whole walk. From Castle Pill the path emerges onto the very busy B4325 and with no pavement and sharp bends we didn’t feel very safe. We walked as quick as possible and were relieved to rejoin the track which headed towards the oil refinery.

There was some expansion work going on at the Oil refinery and the path has been diverted. It is well marked and looks as though it is possibly an improvement on the original route.

The path took us along past the oil refinery jetties over some interesting metal caged bridges. It was easy walking, much of which was along tall hedge lined paths with limited visibility of the surroundings. We stopped for lunch at Hazelbeach on a bench overlooking the estuary to Pembroke Dock, where the Irish Ferry was loading.

Passing around the outskirts of Neyland the path joined the A477 which took us up above Neyland marina and over the Cleddau Bridge. By now the cloud had lifted and there were clear views back along the estuary.

We took a short break at Pembroke Dock. The Martello tower, which was originally built as part of Dockyard defences is now a museum.

After a short section through the town of Pembroke Dock the path followed a far more enjoyable route along tracks and through fields to Pembroke.

Pembroke Castle is an impressive Norman fortress. Pembroke has a lovely atmosphere with numerous old buildings, the mill pond and a good mixture of shops, pubs, and restaurants.

We arrived at our Bed and Breakfast, Penfro just after 5.30.

Evening meal: Old Kings Arms. Excellent food.

Day 10 - Pembroke to Angle

2007-07-04T20:04:00.005+01:00

Friday 13th July 2007
12.5 miles, 8 1/2 hours (including visit to Pembroke Castle)

We left our bed and breakfast just after 9 am. It was a bit drizzly as we set off along the high street towards the castle. It was to be a relatively short day to Angle so we decided to have a visit to the castle before leaving Pembroke.

The visit was well worth while, however the rain which was heavy at times reduced the extent of our views from the top

We spent nearly three hours exploring the castle keep and the numerous rooms along its walls. We could have easily have spent longer here but we had to get on our way to Angle.

We headed out of Pembroke along the road through Monkton. The rain continued to fall and became increasingly heavy as we made our way through fields towards Goldborough.

After passing Brownslate farm the path rejoined the road, although it seemed more like a river. The streams flowing into Goldborough Pill had become so swollen in such a short period of time that we were concerned that we could have difficulties further ahead.

We reached Pwllcrochan church at about 2pm. We sat at the picnic benches near the church for our lunch. The flames rising from the chimneys at the adjacent refinery made us feel a little warmer.

From Pwllcrochan the path headed down below the refinery to pass underneath the pipelines of the Jetty. The next short section of path towards Bullwell Bay was very overgrown. The bracken was nearly two meters high.

As we reached Popton Fort we had a brief glimpse across the bay to angle point before the heavy rain returned. Once past the oil refinery the rain finally stopped. It was a much more pleasant walk along meadow edges into Angle.

Angle was very quiet, just a few people walking dogs. Angle bay was very calm with it being well protected from the wind.

We arrived at the old point house pub at about 5.30.

Evening meal: Old point house pub. Lovely food in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere.

Day 11 - Angle to Bosherston

2007-07-04T20:03:00.018+01:00

Saturday 14th July 2007
20 miles, 9 1/2 hours

It was a warm bright morning as we set off from the Old Point House pub at 9.30. As we headed away from Angle we had our last views of the industrial estuary of Milford Haven. Although it had been an interesting two days it was nice to be back to the coast and the sound of gulls and choughs once more.

Across the estuary we could see Stack Rock fort and Dale just a short distance beyond.

Along this section of path we met another couple of people walking the whole route and these were the only ones we saw all holiday.

By the time we reached Thorn Island the sun was shining well and the cloud was disappearing.

West Angle bay is a lovely secluded sandy bay, with good views back across to St Anns Head.

The path took us past the ruins of East Block House. It is less than one and a half miles across to the Dale peninsula at this point, the narrowest section across the water.

The path around the Angle peninsula was lovely. The sunshine, the views and numerous flowers made us feel much better after the previous wet day.

There were large patches of white sea campion.

Freshwater West looked inviting ahead of us with 2 ½ miles of golden sands.

We reached the beach passing through a small section of the sand dunes known as The Burrows. The sea looked tempting, so we took off our boots and headed across the beach for a paddle. There were patches of soft sand where all of a sudden our feet would disappear which was a little worrying.

We dried off our feet at the top of the beach before heading up to investigate the thatched seaweed-storage hut on the top of Little Furznip.

The path now followed the road inland to Castlemartin around the boundary of the ministry of defence firing ranges.

We soon reached Castlemartin and had our lunch sitting in the well maintained pound.

By planning to arrive here at a weekend the road to Stack Rocks was open for public access. This meant we were able to return to the coast and avoid walking on the road all the way to Bosherston.

Stack Rocks carpark was full and there were many people admiring the Green Bridge.

Elegug Stacks are topped with white as result of the numerous guillemots who nest upon it!

We soon left the crowds behind as we headed along a good track just inland of the cliffs. It was easy walking but lacked the sea views at times.

We arrived at St Govan’s carpark just in time for an ice-cream.

St Govan’s chapel lies at the bottom of the cliffs nestled into the rocks.

After a short visit to the chapel we continued across Trevallen Downs to Broad Haven beach. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to take the detour around St Govan’s head.

Broad Haven is a lovely little beach, one of the nicest we passed on the route. It has clean soft sand surrounded by dunes and pleasant views out to the rocky islands. After nineteen miles of walking we couldn’t resist another paddle.

From the beach we followed the small lagoon up to the outlet of Bosherston lily ponds. The shallow water was very warm to paddle through.

It was very quiet and peaceful along the edge of the lily ponds for the last mile of the day.

We arrived at Cornerstones bed and breakfast at 7pm to discover they had no record of our booking and were fully booked. Fortunately her daughter who also runs a bed and breakfast across the courtyard had a lovely room available.

Evening meal: St Govan’s Inn, Bosherston.
Very busy pub, only outside tables free. We were able to enjoy a lovely sunset watching the swallows swooping around us.

Day 12 - Bosherston to Penally

2007-07-04T20:02:00.009+01:00

Sunday 15th July 2007
16 miles, 9 hours (including visit to Manorbier Castle)

We set off from Bosherston at about 9.30 and headed back down to the lily ponds. Crossing the bridge at the northern end enabled us to follow opposite side of the pool down to Broad Haven beach.

It was a cloudy start to the day and the sea wasn’t as tempting as the previous day. We followed the cliff path along the edge of the sand dunes. Large numbers of tiny flowers were growing in the sandy soil.

We soon reached Barafundle bay which was another lovely sandy beach and was almost completely deserted. With our rucksacks on we left heavy footprints in the sand.

The exit from the north end of the beach climbs up some walled steps which seem a little out of place in such an isolated location.

At Stackpole Quay we followed the path which brought us out above the harbour wall. We climbed down to investigate the harbour. There are signs of this once being used by quite large vessels.

Between Stackpole Quay and Freshwater East we saw a significant change in the appearance of the cliffs from the grey-white limestone to dark red sandstone. Layers of different colours could be clearly seen.

The Restharrow flower which has the appearance of a mini pink and white sweet pea, was abundant along these cliffs.

As we approached Trewent Point there were ponies grazing on the cliffs. The views were hazy but we could see as far as Manorbier bay in the distance.

At Freshwater East there was another stretch of sandy beach, and another chance to remove our boots and walk in the water.

The path returned to the cliff top once more and remained at high level past Swanlake Bay.

It was just after 3pm when we arrived at Manorbier. We headed straight to a café for some lunch.

After a refreshing break we took a little time to visit Manorbier castle. The gatehouse leads through to the inner ward of the castle, which contains a well kept lawn surrounded by flower borders.

Although not as extensive as Pembroke Castle, it is still an interesting building. Several small dark, narrow passageways lead through the walls and up the towers to a variety of rooms. There are great views from the round corner tower.

Time passed quickly in the castle and it was 5.00 as we left Manorbier. Cloud was beginning to darken as we climbed steeply up to Priest's Nose. We walked quickly along the steep sided cliffs towards Old Castle Head. Here the path detours inland to avoid the Manorbier Army Camp. At this point it started to drizzle quite steadily.

On reaching Lydstep Haven we were surprised at the extent of the caravan park, which runs right along the length of the beach. Despite the poor weather there were a group of people braving the sea.

From Proud Giltar we turned off the coast path to our Bed and Breakfast, Giltar Grove near Penally.

Evening meal : Lydstep Tavern. Quiet traditional inn.

Day 13 - Penally to Amroth

2007-07-04T20:01:00.005+01:00

Monday 16th July 2007
11.5 miles, 6 hours (including visit to Tudor Merchant House)

It was a bright and sunny start to our last day as we set off just before 9.30. We rejoined the coast path at Proud Giltar. There were amazing clear views back to Lydstep Point and Haven.

Caldey Island dominated the views as we approached Giltar point. The red flag was not flying so we were able to continue along the cliff through Penally firing range.

As we rounded the point the path began to descend through sand dunes to Tenby south beach. We could see the buildings of Tenby and St Catherines island in the distance.

We walked along the mile of golden sand to Tenby much of the way paddling in the water.

As we approached Tenby we saw more and more people. We took a short detour into the busy town to visit the Tudor Merchants House. This gave an insight to the history of the place.

From the harbour we followed the promenade around to reach the north beach.

The North beach was much more pleasant, less busy and had great views of the multicoloured buildings above the harbour

We could just about see our finishing point ahead behind the rocky islands of Monkstone Point.

At the far end of North beach we climbed up some steep steps onto the road.

The next section of path took us inland along good paths through woodland and fields. At Waterwynch and Lodge Valley the path dropped down to cross small streams. From Monkstone Point Tenby looked quite small in the distance.

It was a pleasant walk on a good path through the woods. About half way to Saundersfoot a small stream crossing the path provided access to the beach. We decided to head down and find a suitable spot for our lunch.

The tide was out and the walking was easy here. We couldn’t resist continuing along the beach paddling in the water for the last three miles to Amroth.

The sun continued to shine, the water was nice and warm and the beach was quiet and peaceful. A perfect end to a lovely walk.

We finished the walk at 3.30 and headed back to Amroth for celebratory ice cream!

Accommodation

2007-07-04T19:00:00.024+01:00

1. Newport
Bryn B&B, Newport, Pembrokeshire, SA42 0TY

Contact: Dale Rees
Tel: 01239 820288
Web: www.brynbedandbreakfast.co.uk
Grid Ref: SN 052 390
Distance from route: 0.6 miles
Cost: £60 - double en-suite room

Comment: A lovely room with sea views and large en-suite shower. Friendly welcome, and great breakfast.

2. Goodwick
Fern Villa Guest House, Church Road, Goodwick, Fishguard, SA64 0EH

Contact: Allan & Judith Cresswell
Tel: 01348 874148
Web: fernvillaguesthouse.co.uk
Grid Ref: SM 943 380
Distance from route: 0.3 miles
Cost: £55 - double en-suite room

Comment: A large, very comfortable room with en-suite shower room. Bay Window with a view towards the harbour. Good breakfast and packed lunch.

3. Trefin
Pen Yr Olmarch, Trefin, Haverford West, Pembrokeshire, SA62 5AL

Contact: Jonathan & Rosemary Birdsall
Tel: 01348 837857
Web: www.penyrolmarch.com
Grid Ref: SM 840 322
Distance from route: 0.5 miles
Cost: £65 - double en-suite room

Comment: Fantastic bed and breakfast with everything you could possibly want. Lovely room, comfortable bed and spotlessly clean. Very friendly and helpful hosts.

4. St Davids
Twr Y Felin, St Davids, Pembrokeshire, SA62 6QS

Tel: 01437 721678
Web: www.tyf.com
Grid Ref: SM 758 250
Distance from route: 0.7 miles
Cost: £60 - standard double room, shared shower

Comment: Basic room, shared shower. Overpriced for the standard of accomodation. Breakfast was good though.

5. Solva
Bank House, Upper Solva, Pembrokeshire

Contact: Sarah
Tel: 01437 720615
Web: www.solva.net/bank_house
Grid Ref: SM 799 245
Distance from route: 0.4 miles
Cost: £65 - double en-suite room

Comment: Lovely clean modern B&B with spacious guest lounge and dining room. Very comfortable room.

6. Broad Haven
Albany Guest House, 27 Millmoor Way, Broad Haven, Haverford West, Pembrokeshire, SA62 3JJ

Contact: Mrs F Morgan
Tel: 01437 781051
Web: www.albanyguesthouse.co.uk
Grid Ref: SM 863 140
Distance from route: 0.1 miles
Cost: £60 - double en-suite room

Comment: Traditional B&B with welcoming hosts. Large room with own conservatory. Good breakfast and packed lunch.

7. Dale
Richmond House, Dale, Haverford West, Pembrokeshire, SA62 3RB

Contact: Cilla Reynolds
Tel: 07974 925009
Web: www.richmond-house.com
Grid Ref: SM 812 056
Distance from route: 0 miles
Cost: £60 - double en-suite room

Comment: Clean and comfortable B&B. Unusual as the owners don't live on site, but they are there to cook breakfast. At other times the kitchen is open for making tea / coffee, with a nice lounge overlooking the harbour.

8. Sandy Haven
Skerryback Farm, Sandy Haven, St Ishmaels, Haverford West, Pembrokeshire, SA62 3DN

Contact: Mrs Margaret Williams
Tel: 01646 636598
Web: www.pfh.co.uk/skerryback
Grid Ref: SM 852 074
Distance from route: 0.1 miles
Cost: £60 - double en-suite room

Comment: Very warm welcome with tea and cake on arrival. Lovely large room with en-suite bathroom. Gave us a lift both to the pub and back for evening meal.

9. Pembroke
Penfro, 111 Main Street, Pembroke, SA71 4DB

Contact: Mrs Judith Lappin
Tel: 01646 682753
Web: www.penfro.co.uk
Grid Ref: SM 988 013
Distance from route: 0.4 miles
Cost: £55 - Morning room - twin with private bathroom.

Comment: A lovely building and very comfortable room, with lots of interest. Lovely breakfast served in the traditional kitchen. Judith is a wonderful host, providing a memorable stay.

10. Angle
The Old Point House Inn, Angle, Pembroke, Pembrokeshire, SA71 5AS

Contact: Doug, Carol & Lee Smith
Tel: 01646 641205
Grid Ref: SM 874 031
Distance from route: 0 miles
Cost: £60 - double room with shared bathroom.

Comment: Great location. Rooms basic but comfortable. Helpful and welcoming. They dried our bags, boots and coats after a very wet day. Really great food produced by Lee.

11. Bosherston
Cornerstones B&B, Bosherston, Pembrokeshire, SA71 5DN

Contact: Mrs Anne James
Tel: 01646 661660
Grid Ref: SR 965 948
Distance from route: 0 miles
Cost: £50 - twin en-suite room

Comment: Due to a mix up (they had lost our booking) we were not expected at Cornerstones, but they found space for us at their daughter's B&B opposite. Lovely clean and comfortable room. Very good breakfast.

12. Penally
Giltar Grove Country House, Penally, Tenby, Pembrokeshire, SA70 7RY

Contact: Roy and Sarah Diment
Tel: 01834 871568
Web: www.giltargrove.co.uk
Grid Ref: SS 099 990
Distance from route: 0.3 miles
Cost: £60 - double en-suite room

Comment: A large comfortable room with small en-suite shower.